Belay Carabiner Review

I review several carabiners for belaying in this video. First, learn to choose a good belay carabiner. Then, a review of the Omega Jake, Black Diamond Rocklock, Black Diamond Pearabiner, Petzl Attache, and Petzl William.

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Comments

jls1337 says:

cool video man, at first I didnt know what to expect but a great review of a good variety of gear from a guy that clearly knows what he is talking about convinced me to subscribe to your channel.
great job man, keep it up!

Northernblades says:

I woudl also like to add, that some gym harnesses with a single tie in point have have the tie in point beefed up so escesivly, that the harness no long fits throught he narrow end of the carabiner on either a gridlock or the belay master.

Northernblades says:

Too early to be commenting. sry.

rockclimberlife says:

Thanks! Be sure to check out my review on the Black Diamond Gridlock before you make a decision.

rockclimberlife says:

Muchos gracias!

CALMlimited2 says:

Thank you sir, you’ve said what I needed to hear.

rockclimberlife says:

Damn… I was had by Google Translate 🙂

rockclimberlife says:

@NEGuiding Thanks!

Kelley Wood says:

We have the same problems with our omega carabiners – also the screw gate gets stuck in the locked position pretty often.

rockclimberlife says:

Yea not a fan of Omega. Thanks for watching!

Mat Cas says:

MAMMUT!!!

sam riggs says:

Good stuff. One disagreement i have with it, (unless I missed something )….you didn’t seem to mention why a tight angle in the basket is a negative aspect.

Konrad Furmanek says:

Very usefull, for a beginner like me, thanks.  Im gonna try William for ATC guide.

Milan Topalov says:

Petzl recommends D shaped carabiner for GriGri2 – not HMS as you state… HMS is only good with Reverso type devices

Carravagio16 says:

good video, i love the dmm boa

mountsun says:

MiniPear, Attache are aslo excellent for belaying with ATC not only GriGri

rockclimberlife says:

It’s the Black Diamond Gridlock Review. Between Carabiner Orientation video and Rock Rings review video. Youtube doesn’t allow me to post links in comments.

rockclimberlife says:

@jls1337 Thanks so much for your positive comment! I really appreciate your subscription to my channel.

onecrazywheel says:

Great video! Thanks very much!

Kyle Weedon says:

No gridlock? No DMM belay master? No Edelrid HMS? I think the most important requirement for a belay carabiner is that it prevents cross loading.

NEGuiding says:

Great video, nice review! Post up a pic of the Omega with the grooves.

rockclimberlife says:

I completely agree on changing when new products come along that are good. See my review on the Black Diamond Gridlock. I use the Gridlock exclusively for all my single pitch climbing. Thanks for the comment!

Northernblades says:

When I look at your videos I see 18 videos, and see no reference to the gridlock.
I lookforward to the arival of the magnetron gridlock, I have used the belay master exclusivly for nearly 10 years, and have compleatly burned through two of them.

I use a trango pyramid (that does nto pop the black gaurd open) so that has not been an isue. The belay master is also PERFECT for a cinch, Grigri. I am unable to find your review of the gridlock,

NEED more characters. soo much to say.

Kelley Wood says:

oh – you covered that too lol – very thorough

rockclimberlife says:

Ya need to send one to me for review!

Aleksandar Sosic says:

Why not using an oval locking carabiner with the grigri?

rockclimberlife says:

You can. I just find using the pear shaped biners to be easier to manipulate.

Northernblades says:

The collection of carabiners that I would use for belay, is a much shorter list than yours. To defend myself before posting, anyone hwo claims the devises are a PAIN, are unable to adapt to change.
-DMM Series Belay Master HMS (generation 2) weapon of choice
-Black Diamond Gridlock
-ATTACHE / ATTACHE 3D

Not yet used
-DMM smart HMS
-CAMP USA HMS Belay Lock
– Mammut Smart Hms
I have had no negative experiences with captive
and ATTACHE is the only non capture I use. For Belay. unless no choice

rockclimberlife says:

@northaunt I agree, however my personal preference is a larger biner when using an ATC.

5x5training.de 5x5 Training und Stronglifts 5x5, Alexander Becker says:

ya need a edelrid magnum hms!

rockclimberlife says:

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed. Be sure to check out my review on the Black Diamond Gridlock.

rockclimberlife says:

@BatmanProject777 It can reduce friction in certain ATC’s. It is best to use the large end of the biner when using an ATC.

Emma Xiao says:

Very awesome video. I am a Chinese so my English will be not as good as a English-speaking person. I have understood most of the video except a word in 5:00~5:30. You wanna point that the sound of BD carabiner but the one of Omega do not make that sound. Would you like to tell me what the word is? It really confused me. Thank you for such a great video!!!

rockclimberlife says:

@PewseyClimbing The Omega Jake. Interesting design but I’m not a fan of Omega biners. They wear much quicker than Black Diamond or Petzl.

J Luciano C says:

Muito bom! Claro e bastante objetivo…

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