What’s The Best Carabiner For Use With Belay Devices? | Climbing Daily, Ep. 581

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In today’s show we take a look at the best Carabiners for use with belay devices…this is more interesting than it sounds trust us, as there is some interesting technology when it comes to this type of kit…

These carabiners are designed to work with all types of belay devices from the Petzl Reverso to the Black Diamond ATC Guide, or the grigri 2. So check out what we reckon is the Best Of The Bunch.

What’s The Best Carabiner For Use With Belay Devices? | Climbing Daily, Ep. 581

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tstrrtstrr says:

I like the Edelrid gear, never had a problem with any of their products. Very good quality.

mtb416 says:

Myte I git a beelay?

Corey Christiansen says:

What is the issue with an auto locker? They didn’t even throw one on here.

Matt Nicassio says:

I own all three and the Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock is WELL WORTH the money!
I have screw gate biners that I bought when I first started climbing. But now I only buy auto lock biners. You can get them for the same price. Trango Mammut and Camp all make auto locking biners for maybe a dollar more than a screw lock. It’s so much faster and you never have to check a locking biner again. I personally like the Mad Rock Ultra Tech Twist Carabiner, it is 12 bucks and only requires a twist rather than a lift and twist.

Till Fischer says:

Well with only 3 to show.. the selection was still very basic. There is way more variety to be had.

flapeee says:

wan’t even better ? Extra lock protection 😉 and no magnet crazyness:

Conrad Roberts says:

The Metolius Gatekeeper is my pick, the bottom gate swings in the opposite direction to the Edelrid one shown so it’s easier to put on and harder to take off, makes more sense to me than having it the other way around.

Rik Elderton says:

The original screw locking BD Gridlock gets my vote, £10 cheaper than the magnetron with a tried and tested locking mechanism.

Billy Newman says:

NIce clear video. Thanks for going over this.

Adventures with Frodo says:

stick to the gym.

Kartoffelino Kartoffelus says:

My best of the bunch is the DMM Belay Master. I won’t recommend a carabiner with a normal screw gate.

Oblivion says:

his hand over hand belaying is driving me insane

Robin Brooks says:

What was that green belay device with he handle (the first belay device shown in the video). I have never seen one before

tonkashouse says:

Magnetron Gridlocks wear out super fast when used with a tube style belay/rappel device. They’re best just used with Gri-Gri’s and such devices.

420 Optic Napeshot says:

I hate it when people let go of the brake rope on a grigri just cause it brakes it self

Daniel Fry says:

Wheres the DMM Belay master?

Northernblades says:

DMM belay master
Mammut Crag Smart HMS Screwgate

and for simplicity, and just belay, do not forget the attache.

oh and the belay needs some serious “updating”

Theo Sheridan says:

why are there no more?

Bryan Sheasby says:

“Beee lay devices” known to the rest of the world as beLAY devices.

Andrew Poet says:


Donald Mei says:

They say the Edelrid beats the Magnetron Gridlock because of price. What they don’t mention is that there is a screwlock version of the Gridlock that is no more money than the Edelrid and still has the Gridlock’s superior design.

mixxer says:

For use with a tube device, i’d simply go for a D-shaped biner, a trilock type preferably. With a Trango cinch or grigri, I found the DMM Gridlock to work great. I just don’t trust these Magnetrons…

Matt Nicassio says:

I have the Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock and an Edelrid HMS Strike Screwlock with FG. My gf and I go to the gym and the crag and especially at the gym where you’re passing the belay device back and forth, plus we often bring other people, the BD Magnetron is such a nice belay biner! It’s super easy for me to show newb’s how to use it, and it just makes everything that much more safe. When it comes to belaying, I spare no expense. We use the Mega Jul in the gym because they only allow tube devices and the GriGri outdoor. Both devices work super well and combined with the BD Megatron we can be sure everything is working at their peak capabilities.
I did personally learn on a regular screw lock biner and a normal BD tube device. I think I have better habits because of this. But if you’re going to be climbing with friends who just want to get their feet wet in the sport and aren’t looking to build a rack anytime soon. I see more sense in using something that can lock or assist brake and a biner that can’t cross load or forget to be locked.

Kyle Weedon says:

I love my Edelrid Bruce steel HMS carabiner. Basically the same as the one in this video but it’ll last much much longer. I think it’s best for beginner belayers to learn with a screwgate so they get the habit of checking to see if it’s locked. If they learn on a twist lock or magnetron then later use a screwgate they may leave it unlocked… since they’re used to using autolocking biners

Yukon Cornelius says:

The guy in the vid really needs to learn how to belay.

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